On 27 February 2025, I entered upon my first Umrah, the lesser pilgrimage to Makkah, facilitated by the Saudi embassy in Wellington, New Zealand travelling with nine other esteemed Muslim gentlemen from across New Zealand as guests of King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud.
Entering the country via Madinah, we were received by representatives of our host, the Saudi Ministry of Islamic Affairs, Dawah and Guidance meeting our co-ordinator Hajji Mohammed Gad El-Rab, originally from Egypt.
We were welcomed to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the fourth group of the Custodian of the Two Holy Mosque’s Guest Program. El-Rab expressed, via WhatsApp, a desire to hear our voices and suggestions.
We were driven by bus to the Shahd al Madinah Hotel (also known as the Sofitel Hotel) on King Fahd Road, a five-minute walk from the Masjid Nabawi (mosque of the Prophet) where in addition to sumptuous hotel accommodation (that included two free meals a day), we were granted free Ihram gear and Wi-Fi; local prayer times and other miscellaneous information was promptly provided thus, regularly and in multiple languages.
I understand there were 240 international guests in total from countries as diverse as: Australia, Bangladesh, Egypt, Georgia, India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Maldives, Pakistan, Nepal, Russia, Sri Lanka, Tajikistan and Turkey.
On our second day in the kingdom Friday morning, I endeavoured to attend Juma salat inside the Masjid Nabawi but instead, due to the huge number of pilgrims, I performed my prayers on the road outside the hotel.
The khutbah was delivered by Sheikh Abdullah Buayjaan, and concerned the guidance of Allah and the path to Jannat. He argued that the best talk can be found in the words of Allah and the best guidance is the guidance of Muhammad bin Abdullah (s); and every innovation in religion is misguidance.
In the evening our delegation visited the King Fahd Complex for printing the Quran where I received a free copy of the sacred book. Then we were driven to the Quba Mosque.
On our third day, several of our group went to the Rawdah inside the Masjid Nabawi as we had special permits to spend 30 minutes there and pray two rakat. The Ottoman-era ceilings were astonishing.
Later in the evening we also attended a tour of the International Exhibition and Museum of the Prophet’s Biography and Islamic Civilisation.
The following afternoon, Sheikh Tariq Al-Ghuwairi provided a short speech on the lessons, rites and rules of Umrah, at the Hotel Musalah. This was followed by a question-and-answer session with the pilgrims.
On our fifth day, Monday 3 March, the New Zealand delegation left the city of Madinah dressed in full Ihram, destination Makkah stopping to pray two rakat and say talbiah for the Umrah at the Meeqat Dhul al-Hulayfa.
We arrived in Makkah in time for Maghrib and Iftar. As guests of His Majesty, we stayed at the Swiss Hotel (also called the “Swissotel Al Maqam”) inside the Clock Tower, overlooking the Kaaba. (Part of the King Abdul Aziz Endowment, Abraj Al Bait Complex, Ibrahim Al Khalil Street.)
That same evening our delegation enthusiastically went to the Masjid al Haram to perform the Umrah and promptly became separated in the massive crowds. However, under these circumstances, during my Tawaf, I was able to deep dive into the crowd and touch the Kiswa twice, the Yemeni corner of the Kaaba and then – that holy of holies – the Black Stone.
I forgot the mandatory prayers, uttered “Allahu Akbar”, “La Hawla wala Qu-watta ila Billah” and then made a short private Dua. I was then swept away by the crush of the large crowd of sweaty, fervent souls. I then performed the Safa and Marwa component of the Umrah.
On the following day, after Iftar and Maghrib at the hotel musalah, I attended a ten-minute speech by Sheikh Al-Waleed Al-Shamsan, Imam of the Masjid al Haram. Our co-ordinator, Hajji Mohammed Gad El-Rab provided a helpful running translation.
We were to visit the King Abul Aziz Factory for covering the Kaaba on the seventh day, but this was cancelled due to ongoing traffic issues. (The closing of particular and peculiar roads for maintenance, limited alternative options, a lack of routes that would guarantee a timely return to the hotel for Suhoor and the challenge of commuting between the hotel complex and the planned destination.) We were inundated with profuse and sincere apologies from the organisers.
On Thursday 6 March, after Tarawih prayers, there was a final farewell function where speeches were given by Sheikh Fawaz Al-Khulaify, Director of the program activities; Sheikh, Ali Az-Zughaiby, General Manager of the program; and Sheikh Awad al-Anazi, the Deputy Minister of the Ministry of Islamic Affairs.
They all praised Allah and commented about Islam. Delegates received a gift box containing a Tasbih, Attar and a small plaque of the Saudi King. Again, our co-ordinator, Hajji Mohammed Gad El-Rab provided a helpful running translation.
On the evening of the ninth day we left the hotel for Jeddah International airport, travelling with the Australian delegates heading for Sydney. Our Saudi escorts generously upgraded most of us from “economy” to “business” class for the flight to Dubai, and provided us all with free Zamzam water.
Going through security at the Jeddah airport, the souvenir fridge magnets in my bag triggered the x-ray machine and I was asked to open it. The staff member present was clearly surprised by all the metal, a quizzical expression on his face. So, I said in my poor Arabic: “Zawjati” (“my wife”) and “Samayna wa atayna” (“to hear is to obey”) and he burst out laughing, then waved me on.
We arrived in Dubai in the morning and connected with a flight to Auckland.
Many thanks and Shukran Jazilan to King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud for inviting us as guests for our Umrah.
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